Difference between revisions of "Garb"

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N. ''Garb is the costume that players wear.''
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''For the symbol in heraldry representing wheat, see [[sheaf]].''
===In History===
 
Clothing (also called clothes, accoutrements, accouterments, or habiliments) protects the human body from extreme weather and other features of the environment. It is worn for safety, comfort, modesty and to reflect religious, cultural and social meaning.
 
The practical function of clothing is to protect the human body from dangers in the environment: weather (strong sunlight, extreme heat or cold, and precipitation, for example), insects, noxious chemicals, weapons, and contact with abrasive substances, and other hazards. Clothing can protect against many things that might injure the naked human body. In some cases, clothing protects the environment from the clothing wearer as well (example: medical scrubs).[[Image:Garb Malfunction.jpg|frame|'Garb malfunctions' are bad.]]
 
  
According to archaeologists and anthropologists, the earliest clothing probably consisted of fur, leather, leaves or grass, draped, wrapped or tied about the body for protection from the elements. Knowledge of such clothing remains inferential, since clothing materials deteriorate quickly compared to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts. Archeologists have identified very early sewing needles of bone and ivory from about 30,000 BC, found near Kostenki, Russia in 1988.
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'''Garb''' (sometimes referred to as '''kit''') is clothing that you wear, usually referring specifically to non-modern clothing worn at events like a Renaissance Faire, historical reenactment, or a [[LARP]]. The choice in clothing worn adds to the environment, creating a sense to involvement in the activity and signifying your participation. Garb can vary depending on the context, from a simple [[tunic]] and [[pants]] to complex [[dress]]es and doublets. The signifying characteristic of garb over the term "clothing" is garb's adherence to historical and fantasy visuals.
  
In many societies, people of high rank reserve special items of clothing or decoration for themselves as symbols of their social status. In ancient times, only Roman senators were permitted wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple; only high-ranking Hawaiian chiefs wore feather cloaks and palaoa or carved whale teeth. Under the Travancore kingdom of Kerala (India), lower caste women had to pay a tax for the right to cover their upper body. In China before the establishment of the republic, only the emperor could wear yellow. In many cases throughout history, there have been elaborate systems of sumptuary laws regulating who could wear what. In other societies (including most modern societies) no laws prohibit lower-status people wearing high status garments, but the high cost of status garments effectively limits their purchase and display. In current Western society, only the rich can afford haute couture. The threat of social ostracism may also limit garment choice. If one is not wearing a specific brand or style of clothing one's social status may fall. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_clothing 1]
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==In Amtgard==
===In Amtgard===
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Garb is a very important aspect of Amtgard culture. New players are expected to begin wearing garb within the first month of participation, which they either obtain through gifts from veterans or of their own accord. Many parks offer the limited use of [[loaner garb]] for people who fail to wear their own. People wear garb in Amtgard for many reasons: immersion into the fantasy world, the boasting of significant colors or symbols, to represent a persona or [[NPC]], or simply to be allowed to take the field under the combat rules.
From the amtgard beginner's guide by Dame [[Gwynne]].
 
There are probably aspects of Amtgard more important than garb but it has to figure near the top of the list. This statement is prejudiced, of course as I am into garb both by predilection and by edict. Stop and think about garb for just a minute. Would Amtgard be as much fun without garb? Picture a feast without garb! Why is garb so satisfying? Why is any Amtgard function enhanced by garb? I think one of the biggest reasons is the difficulty in expressing, via what you wear, your true personality/persona in the mundane world. Let us face it, folks, mundanity by the verydefinition of the word, i.e., '''mundane''' (''1) of the world, (2) commonplace, everyday, ordi-nary, etc.'', is boring! This is not to say you should give in to that impulse and wear a capeto school or carry a broadsword to work but it is good for the psyche to wear a cape andcarry a broadsword sometimes- hence Amtgard and garb.
 
  
Let us consider the word '''garb'''. According to Webster’s New World Dictionary of the American Language, Second College Edition: garb (garb) n. (OFr. garbe, graceful-ness - It. garbo, elegance, prob. ult. -Gr. kalopsois, making beautiful - kalos, beautiful +poiein, to make [see POET]) 1. clothing; manner or style of dress, esp. as characteristic of an occupation, profession, or rank. 2. external form, covering, or appearance 3. (obs) style; manner - vt. to clothe; dress; attire. Note the words used in reference to garb, “gracefulness, elegance, beautiful, style”. Quite a difference from commonplace, everyday, ordinary, and etc., wouldn’t you say? I especially like the reference to the word poet. I personally think garb and the marvelous words used to describe it are stronglytied to appropriateness. In other words, a bikini can be graceful and elegant at poolsidebut just the opposite at a symphony. Most of us have already spotted the obvious in thatwe normally will not wear feast garb to a ditch battle. Not only do satins, brocades, andvelvets not take to intimate association with grass, dirt, rocks, and etc. but who can afford to have them dry cleaned once a week! This is however, not to say that fighting garb cannot be elegant and graceful. Combining these two virtues with sturdiness and ease ofupkeep is not as difficult as it may appear. Basically, dress garb and fighting garb are much alike in design. It is in the materialused that difference is apparent. Three basic patterns will serve to produce a basic garbwardrobe. Weare of course referring to (1) T-tunic, (2) Basic pants, and (3) Basic skirt.With modification of material and length the three basics can be expanded into a closet fullof garb and take you from feast to fray in comfort and style.The most (MOST!!) important thing to keep in mind when considering the start ofyour engarbment is fit. This cannot be stressed too heavily. Take your time- measureeverything- twice! Create your three patterns to fit you exactly and then never worryabout the fit again. I would even go so far as to use scrap material for first piece utilizing your personalized patterns. Cut up an old sheet. Who cares if it has purple and pink gardenias on it?-this is for fit only. Sew up the major seams and try it on. Make sure you have a friend available to check thefit from the sides and back. Also make sure your friend won’t laugh themselves silly over the gardenias.Modify the pattern if necessary being sure to mark the changes on the pattern itself and then go looking forsuitable material. Suitable material is anything that fits the following requirements:
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Simple garb can be very inexpensive, which alleviates the barrier between new players and the continuation of playing Amtgard. Many players search through thrift stores to find old clothing that can be modified to fit the visuals of a swords and sorcery organization. Baggy polo shirts can be cut to resemble a tunic, accented by a belt at the waist and plain linen pants. With enough searching, persistent garb shoppers can find old army blankets for a warm clock, or a cool hat to complete the look.
  
FIGHTING GARB:1.Preferably a material that looks natural. Obvious synthetics just don’t look very realistic. Go forcotton/poly blends, linen/poly blends, wool or wool blends.2.The rougher the treatment the garb is liable to receive the heavier/sturdier the material should be. Forpants use the twills, gaberdines, denims or the heavier wool blends. Use unbleached/bleached muslin for agood, cheap choice for shirts. Lighter weight twills, etc. are fine for tunics.
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On the other end of the spectrum, committed players will sometimes spend time, money, and energy to make beautiful handmade garb that dazzles the senses and wows their peers. [[Garbers]] spend years perfecting their craft, whether they make fighting tunics with complex [[applique]] or [[embroidered|embroidery]] [[hood]]s or detailed [[gowns|dress]].
  
DRESS GARB:1.Anything goes. Anything! Just keep in mind that the more plush and/or delicate the material the moredifficult upkeep is going to be.
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Garb is often spilt into three categories: '''field garb''', which is the de facto garb for weekend [[park]] activities; '''court garb''', usually worn to [[feast]]s and [[court]] at large events; and '''monster garb''', used to denote and represent a [[monster]] during [[battlegames]].
  
THE FOLLOWING IS ONE EXAMPLE OF A BASIC STARTER WARDROBE:
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===Fighting garb===
FEMALE:
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In order to withstand the strain of battle, fighting garb should be as durable as possible. Reinforcing seams can help to prevent ripped garb. Adding gussets and gores to armpits, tunic skirts, and pant crotches relieve the pressure from major connection on garb, and can allow better range of movement.
*Medium weight cotton [[skirt]] in dark gray.
 
*[[T-tunic]], long sleeved in off white.
 
*T-tunic, wider gathered sleeve in a dark burgundy.
 
*Light weight skirt in dark burgundy.
 
*T-tunic made to floor length in a very fine cotton, light gray for feasts, etc.
 
*T-tunic, short sleeved in dark gray.
 
  
MALE:
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Natural fabrics are often preferred, especially in hotter climates, since synthetic material doesn't wick away sweat and keep the body cool as well as natural fabric. Cotton, linen, and even lightweight wool will be much cooler than polyester and nylon. In colder climates, keeping warm is a top priority, though vigorous exercise can warm a body up very quickly. Wearing multiple layers is preferable to one thick layer, both as a trick to keep out the cold and to allow the fighter to remove and add layers as their temperature changes.
*Heavy to medium weight twill [[pants]] in dark [[brown]].
 
*T-tunic, short sleeved in tan.
 
*T-tunic, long narrow sleeve in [[blue]].
 
*Medium weight pants in blue for dress events (feasts, etc.).
 
*T-tunic, long, wide, gathered sleeve in off white muslin or cotton.
 
*An over-tunic, sleeveless or a very short, capped sleeve to wear over the muslin shirt and the blue shirt.
 
*Make up in very dark blue.
 
  
Now, add some accessories in the way of [[belt]]s, shawls, jewlery, [[belt pouch]]es and etc. and you aregarbed. Look at the above lists and figure out the number of different combinations you can make out of fiveor six items. With the basics listed you can expand your garb wardrobe geometrically by selective additions of just one or two more clothing items. For instance, add a short vest to either wardrobe and see how many morecombinations you can come up with. A cape, especially a reversible one, will add even more dimension toyour options. Keep it basic- add fancier stuff later, when you can afford garb so specialized it can only beworn one way.
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Depending on the class someone plays, or the way they fight, different garb might be required. A tunic and pants would allow a fighter to assume practically any combative position. Floor-length skirts, or very billowy garb, might make it hard to assume melee combat, though it may not impede an [[archer]] or [[magic]] user. When choosing fighting garb, it's important to consider what type of fighting you will be doing, and under what conditions.
  
[[SHOES]]- THE MOST DIFFICULT PARTOF GARBING: Garb shoes. Where on Earth do you get them? Is there really such a thing? Do you have to spend afortune and have them custom made? The answers to all of these questions are (1) Wherever you can findthem. (2) Yes, there really are garb shoes. and (3) No, not necessarily.Where do you get them? Shop a lot in “cheap” areas such as South El Paso. Some of those strangelittle shops will occasionally have the perfect soft boot or funky, totally medieval sandal you have been lustingfor. I would also recommend keeping an eye on the large department stores at the various malls. I have foundseveral pair of good garb boots at department stores- on sale yet!Major Renaissance events often have merchants selling garb shoes. Amtgard Garber’sGuild has alsopublished patterns for soft cloth or leather shoes. If your belt pouch is of sufficient depth and weight you canalso have boots custom made but.... be prepared to shop all over town for a bootmaker who has anything buta western type boot pattern. You’ll have better luck in Juarez, Mexico or similar areas with lower prices.Dress shoes for male and female are not nearly as difficult to obtain as the daily wear shoe or boot.Believe it or not the modern version of cloth or leather bedroom slipper is often so close to a traditional garbshoe as to make no difference.Whichever route you choose to take in your pursuit of garb shoes, be prepared to spend time if notmoney and keep fingers crossed as you will also need some luck!CAPES: No comment save, see various Garber’sGuild publications for patterns and make sure you have atleast one good all weather cape. see [[Footwear]]
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===Court garb===
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Since court is often conducted in cover shelters or indoors, court garb is much less restricted in materials and fit than fighting garb. Amtgardians wear a variety of things to court, representing a wide variety of personas and personal tastes. In some regions and conditions, it's socially acceptable to wear fighting garb - just off the [[ditch]] line - to court or feast. In other times or places, it's considered rude, and people are expected to at least don a clean tunic.
  
ACCESSORIES:You will need and want the various items so necessary to add flair and panache to your garb. “Items”can range from jewlery, belts, pins, belt pouches, favors and headgear, to you name it. Best of all, accessoryitems seem to be the easiest to find or make. Again, areas like South El Paso are happy hunting grounds for thestrange and/or funky. Flea markets are also a good source for weird and wonderful “items”.
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===Monster garb===
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When portraying a [[monster]], either during a battlegame or as a [[monster race]], monster garb is essential to properly convey the creature you are representing. The quality of monster garb varies from complex and creative, to minimal or non-existent, depending on the person or group who are playing a monster. The minimum requirement during a battlegame is a silver [[sash]], though other accessories are suggested. The definitive guide for playing a monster in Amtgard is the [[Dor Un Avathar]], a manual of the traits and abilities of both monster and monster races.
  
ONE LAST COMMENT:When you have taken care of appropriateness and fit for your basic garb keep in mind a very impor-tant condition not heretofore mentioned. That condition is quality of workmanship. What a waste to have agood pattern, really suitable material and then nullify the entire effort by casual or downright shoddy workman-ship, unless your persona is a serf, slave, or beggar, of course. These three personas positively require gross,raveled, and scruffy garb. Another point, beside the aesthetic, is why would you take the considerable amountof time and trouble to assure pattern fit and expend your dollars on material to make up garb in such a manneras to assure it will not last beyond a few wearings? Not me. I’m too lazy to sew up anything that will not standthe tests of time, wear, and multiple washings. If you are not sure of your sewing technique find someone whois then pick their brain or, if you have enough charm or a large enough club, convince some master seamstress/tailor to make up the garb for you. GO FORTH AND GARB! (editor’s note- The Garb Book, a comprehensive guide to Amtgard garbing, is forthcoming from Gwynne).
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==Types of garb==
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While garb itself is an important aspect of Amtgard, there is no clear cut definition as to what the category contains. Most Amtgardians portray a vaguely-medieval person, wearing a tunic, pants, and dark shoes or boots. Some Amtgardians break this mold by wearing garb to represent different personas: ears and a tail to play a [[catperson]], [[hakama]] as part of an Eastern regalia, the [[chiton]] of a Greek citizen, or the orange and green wings of a [[fairy]]. Others portray a specific culture while wearing the standard tunic: adding a four-panel wool [[hat]] to portray a Viking, or altering the tunic pattern slightly to make the [[rubakha]] of a Russian. The wide variety of influence of Amtgard culture allows for infinite creative potential.
  
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===Torso===
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The most common item of garb for the torso is the [[tunic]], a simple garment that is common throughout history and fantasy. There's also a standard [[shirt]], often worn as an undergarment to add a layer between a tunic and the skin. A [[surcoat]] can look great over a shirt or undertunic. [[Dress]]es are always visible in Amtgard culture, with varying lengths and styles. Many people like to augment their torso layer with a [[corset]], worn both under the garb as a posture trainer and over the garb as an accent piece.
  
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For warmth, most Amtgardians default to a [[cloak]], with styles and lengths depending on personal taste. Some cloaks are hooded, or have sleeves, while others are more simple rectangles fastened around the body. [[Coat]]s are also popular, like the Norse [[kaftan]]. Materials for cloaks range from think satin to thick wool.
  
===From the [[7.2]] [[Rulebook]] Section. [[Battlegame]]===
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===Bottoms===
''Here follows some restrictions and guildlines for garb taken directly from the rulebook''
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Unless you are wearing a long garment on top, bottoms are a must. The most common contender are [[trousers]], though some people cheat with dark-colored jeans. [[Skirts]] are also popular, and can be as thin or fluffy as the wearer desires. A common sight in Amtgard are [[wrap pants]], and their cousin [[hakama]], both intended to wrap and tie around the wearer's waist. Some who wish to wear more period bottoms might try [[hose]] fitted to their legs, or [[chauces]] and [[braies]].
  
Each [[Class|class]] has its own particular garb parameters. In addition, there are certain other garb elements that denote special positions.
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===Shoes===
Note that all battlefield participants must be in “period” garb ([[Tunic|tunic]], robe, [[armor|Armor]], etc.):
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Shoes are often a point of contention among the Amtgard population, as good [[leather]] [[shoes]] either require [[leather working]] skills or a decent chunk of change, which some Amtgardians don't have. When medieval-looking leather shoes aren't an option for any reason, it's common for players to wear neutral-colored sneakers or boots. A thrifty player can often find used boots at second-hand stores if they are willing to search.
  
# White [[Belt|belts]] (any belt more than 25% white), unadorned chains, and spurs are reserved for knights and may not be worn by others.A knight may also choose to trim a knight's white belt with a color particular to that order of [[knighthood]]: Gold for [[Knight of the Crown]], Silver for [[Knight of the Sword]], Red for [[Knight of the Flame]], and Green for [[Knight of the Serpent]].<br>
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To kick it up a notch, plain shoes can be augmented with [[spats]] to hide the modern aspect of already-owned shoes.
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When money or time aren't issues, pair of leather shoes or boots can be a solid addition to a garb wardrobe. Pre-made or cutsom-made shoes by artians are not cheap, but can be a perfect fit and made to order. Learning to make your own [[turnshoes]] is time-consuming, but can cut costs far down and be a wonderful [[A&S]] entry.
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===Accessories===
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Good accessories can add a fine touch to garb. The most common accessory, used by almost every Amtgardian, is an o-ring [[belt]]. Belts are essential for keeping tunics from billowing while fighting and moving. Some people prefer a buckled belt, both for looks and support. Solid white and red belts are reserved colors, representing [[knights]] and [[squires]] respectively. Black and yellow belts often indicate [[men at arms]] and [[pages]], but are worn by a variety of people.
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The belt can serve a secondary function of acting as a place to hang [[pouch]]es and [[belt favor]]s, which can be accessories unto themselves. Some fighters like to hold their weapon in a [[sword frog]], while a small minority prefer to craft a [[boffer]]-friendly [[scabbard]].
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===From the [[Rulebook]]===
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Each [[Class|class]] has its own particular [[Sash|garb parameters]]. In addition, there are certain other garb elements that denote special positions. Additionally you may receive a [[Look the Part]] bonus for your class if your garb portrays your class well. Note that all battlefield participants must be in “period” garb ([[Tunic|tunic]], robe, [[armor|Armor]], etc.):
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# [[White]] [[Belt|belts]] (any belt more than 25% white), [[unadorned chains]], and [[spurs]] are reserved for knights and may not be worn by others. A [[knight]] may also choose to trim a knight's white belt with a color particular to that order of [[knighthood]]: [[Gold]] for [[Knight of the Crown]], [[Silver]] for [[Knight of the Sword]], [[Red]] for [[Knight of the Flame]], and [[Green]] for [[Knight of the Serpent]].<br>
 
#[[Red]] belts (any belt more than 50% red) are generally only worn by [[Squire|squires]].<br>
 
#[[Red]] belts (any belt more than 50% red) are generally only worn by [[Squire|squires]].<br>
 
#[[Black]] belts with silver trim are generally only worn by [[Man-at-Arms|men-at arms]].<br>
 
#[[Black]] belts with silver trim are generally only worn by [[Man-at-Arms|men-at arms]].<br>
#The [[Phoenix]] is the symbol of Amtgard. White and Black Phoenixes are reserved for [[Knight|knights]]. Gold Phoenix on red background is reserved for [[Warlord]]. Otherwise, the phoenix is generally only worn as part of kingdom heraldry.<br>
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#The [[Phoenix|phoenix]] is the symbol of Amtgard. [[White]] and [[Black]] Phoenixes are reserved for [[Knight|knights]]. Gold Phoenix on red background is reserved for [[Warlord]]. Otherwise, the phoenix is generally only worn as part of [[kingdom]] [[heraldry]].<br>
#A diagonal slash of a guild’s distinct color, worn on a belt, baldric or tunic, is the mark of a [[Class Masterhood|class master]].<br>
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#A sash in the color of their class decorated with a silver trim is the reserved symbol for [[Paragon]]s (Class Masterhood)<br>
 
#[[Guildmasters]] are entitled to wear favors marked with the symbol of their guild.<br>
 
#[[Guildmasters]] are entitled to wear favors marked with the symbol of their guild.<br>
#The use of crowns and coronets is reserved for [[Courts|royalty]] and [[nobility|Noble]], although their retainers may wear the symbol of a crown on their garb.<br>
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#The use of [[crowns]] and [[coronets]] is reserved for [[Courts|royalty]] and [[Noble|nobility]], although their retainers may wear the symbol of a crown on their garb.<br>
#Most companies and many individuals choose to register their personal symbols and colors. While not specifically disallowed, it is considered bad form to use another’s coat of arms without his agreement. Personal symbols and colors should be registered with the [[Guildmaster of Heraldry]] and the [[Prime Minister]].<br>
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#Most companies and many individuals choose to register their personal symbols and colors. While not specifically disallowed, it is considered bad form to use another’s [[coat of arms]] without his agreement. Personal symbols and colors should be registered with the [[Guildmaster of Heraldry]] and the [[Prime Minister]].<br>
#Single color belt favors are indicative of a fighter’s relative standing within the fraternity of [[Order of the Warrior]].<br>
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#The garb of a page is a [[yellow]] [[belt]] and is generally not worn by others.<br>
#The garb of a page is a yellow belt (not a sash as per wizard) and is generally not worn by others. A non-fighting page must also wear a gold [[Ribbon|“enchantment” strip]] if on the field.<br>
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#The use and application of good garb is important in creating the correct mood of the Amtgard battlegames and events. All members must be garbed in a “period” fashion. Newcomers should have their own garb (and [[weapons]]) within a month of having first attended Amtgard. It is easy and inexpensive to fashion a [[Tunic|T-tunic]] or [[Tabard|tabard]], and plenty of people are willing to help. If you have questions about garb or any area of the [[Rulebook|rules]], then all you have to do is ask.<br>
#The use and application of good garb is important in creating the correct mood of the Amtgard battlegames and events. All members must be garbed in a “period” fashion. Newcomers should have their own garb (and weapons) within a month of having first attended Amtgard. It is easy and inexpensive to fashion a [[Tunic|T-tunic]] or [[tabard|Tabard]], and plenty of people are willing to help. If you have questions about garb or any area of the rules, then all you have to do is ask.<br>
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#For the purpose of determining what class people are playing, [[class]] [[sashes]] must run diagonally across the chest from one shoulder to the opposite hip. They must be at least two inches wide. You may not wear [[Sash|sashes]] for [[Class|classes]] you are not currently playing. [[Paladin]] and [[Anti-Paladin]] symbols must be at least 5 inches by 5 inches.<br>
#For the purpose of determining what class people are playing, class sashes must run diagonally across the chest from one shoulder to the opposite hip. They must be at least two inches wide. You may not wear [[Sash|sashes]] for [[classes|Class]] you are not currently playing. [[Paladin]] and [[Anti-Paladin]] symbols must be at least 5 inches by 5 inches.<br>
 
===Types of garb===
 
''See these entries for tutorials and examples '' Also see [[Fighting Garb]] and [[Court Garb]]
 
[[Image:PLATE2BX.JPG|left|200px]]
 
*[[Footwear]]-not to be confused with [[Boots]].
 
*[[Pants]]
 
*[[Shirts]]
 
*[[Sash]]
 
*[[Favors]]
 
=====European=====
 
*[[Bodice]]
 
*[[Doublet]]
 
*[[Tunic]]
 
*[[Tabard]]
 
*[[Cloak]]
 
*[[Tights]]
 
*[[Hoods]]
 
*[[Pantalettes]]
 
*[[Hose]] (Tights)
 
*[[Wrap Pants]]
 
*[[Breeches]]
 
 
 
=====Oriental=====
 
*[[Kosode]]
 
*[[Hakama]]
 
*[[Thai fisherman pants]]
 
*[[Kyahan]]
 
*[[Kamishimo]]
 
*[[Hitatare]]
 
  
===Links===
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===Links===  
*[http://sca-garb.freeservers.com/articles/index.html SCA Garb Guide]  
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*[https://wiki.amtgard.com/Category:Garb Category:Garb]
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*[https://web.archive.org/web/20060822091850/http://www.amtgard-wl.com/library/Elissa-GarbMadeEasy.pdf Garb Made Easy] by [[Elissa Mackan|Elissa]]
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*[http://www.electricsamurai.com/main_page.pl?action=view_article&file=20060612152603-Guests.txt&dir=General Trashy Garb and Positive Perceptions], an article about garb standards by [[Sir]] [[Randall]]
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*[http://www.festiveattyre.com/ Festive Attire Historical Costuming], a seamstress's blog, making garb from Renaissance era to near-modern clothing, focused on feminine clothing
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*[https://web.archive.org/web/20190211124243/http://web.comhem.se/~u31138198/main.html Costuming website] by Eva, and [[SCA|SCAdian]].
 +
*[http://www.marquise.de/de/1400/howto/index.shtml Patterns] based on historic art (German language)
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*[http://www.extremecostuming.com/home.html Extreme Costuming], a historic reenactment blog displaying costuming
 +
*[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j4umDA1UCZ8W4S_EUpzv4HictEJqO2V7/view?usp=sharing Viking Hood Tutorial] by Frú Ka'a Acklie
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*[https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/index.php Reconstructing History], an online store of historical costume patterns
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*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1R8eulTsb9Zlc7h2H917dNJZS9s0rIq9OAu7LpSS9F2k/edit Claire Hummel's Historical Fashion Reference & Resources], a Google Doc of extensive resources for historical costuming, including but not limited to medieval- and renaissance-era clothing.
 +
*[http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ Elizabethan Costuming Page]
  
 
[[Category:Amtgard Resources]]  
 
[[Category:Amtgard Resources]]  
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[[Category:Amtgard Things]]
[[Category: Amtgard Things]]
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[[Category:Arts and Sciences]]

Latest revision as of 02:34, 27 February 2024

For the symbol in heraldry representing wheat, see sheaf.

Garb (sometimes referred to as kit) is clothing that you wear, usually referring specifically to non-modern clothing worn at events like a Renaissance Faire, historical reenactment, or a LARP. The choice in clothing worn adds to the environment, creating a sense to involvement in the activity and signifying your participation. Garb can vary depending on the context, from a simple tunic and pants to complex dresses and doublets. The signifying characteristic of garb over the term "clothing" is garb's adherence to historical and fantasy visuals.

In Amtgard

Garb is a very important aspect of Amtgard culture. New players are expected to begin wearing garb within the first month of participation, which they either obtain through gifts from veterans or of their own accord. Many parks offer the limited use of loaner garb for people who fail to wear their own. People wear garb in Amtgard for many reasons: immersion into the fantasy world, the boasting of significant colors or symbols, to represent a persona or NPC, or simply to be allowed to take the field under the combat rules.

Simple garb can be very inexpensive, which alleviates the barrier between new players and the continuation of playing Amtgard. Many players search through thrift stores to find old clothing that can be modified to fit the visuals of a swords and sorcery organization. Baggy polo shirts can be cut to resemble a tunic, accented by a belt at the waist and plain linen pants. With enough searching, persistent garb shoppers can find old army blankets for a warm clock, or a cool hat to complete the look.

On the other end of the spectrum, committed players will sometimes spend time, money, and energy to make beautiful handmade garb that dazzles the senses and wows their peers. Garbers spend years perfecting their craft, whether they make fighting tunics with complex applique or embroidery hoods or detailed dress.

Garb is often spilt into three categories: field garb, which is the de facto garb for weekend park activities; court garb, usually worn to feasts and court at large events; and monster garb, used to denote and represent a monster during battlegames.

Fighting garb

In order to withstand the strain of battle, fighting garb should be as durable as possible. Reinforcing seams can help to prevent ripped garb. Adding gussets and gores to armpits, tunic skirts, and pant crotches relieve the pressure from major connection on garb, and can allow better range of movement.

Natural fabrics are often preferred, especially in hotter climates, since synthetic material doesn't wick away sweat and keep the body cool as well as natural fabric. Cotton, linen, and even lightweight wool will be much cooler than polyester and nylon. In colder climates, keeping warm is a top priority, though vigorous exercise can warm a body up very quickly. Wearing multiple layers is preferable to one thick layer, both as a trick to keep out the cold and to allow the fighter to remove and add layers as their temperature changes.

Depending on the class someone plays, or the way they fight, different garb might be required. A tunic and pants would allow a fighter to assume practically any combative position. Floor-length skirts, or very billowy garb, might make it hard to assume melee combat, though it may not impede an archer or magic user. When choosing fighting garb, it's important to consider what type of fighting you will be doing, and under what conditions.

Court garb

Since court is often conducted in cover shelters or indoors, court garb is much less restricted in materials and fit than fighting garb. Amtgardians wear a variety of things to court, representing a wide variety of personas and personal tastes. In some regions and conditions, it's socially acceptable to wear fighting garb - just off the ditch line - to court or feast. In other times or places, it's considered rude, and people are expected to at least don a clean tunic.

Monster garb

When portraying a monster, either during a battlegame or as a monster race, monster garb is essential to properly convey the creature you are representing. The quality of monster garb varies from complex and creative, to minimal or non-existent, depending on the person or group who are playing a monster. The minimum requirement during a battlegame is a silver sash, though other accessories are suggested. The definitive guide for playing a monster in Amtgard is the Dor Un Avathar, a manual of the traits and abilities of both monster and monster races.

Types of garb

While garb itself is an important aspect of Amtgard, there is no clear cut definition as to what the category contains. Most Amtgardians portray a vaguely-medieval person, wearing a tunic, pants, and dark shoes or boots. Some Amtgardians break this mold by wearing garb to represent different personas: ears and a tail to play a catperson, hakama as part of an Eastern regalia, the chiton of a Greek citizen, or the orange and green wings of a fairy. Others portray a specific culture while wearing the standard tunic: adding a four-panel wool hat to portray a Viking, or altering the tunic pattern slightly to make the rubakha of a Russian. The wide variety of influence of Amtgard culture allows for infinite creative potential.

Torso

The most common item of garb for the torso is the tunic, a simple garment that is common throughout history and fantasy. There's also a standard shirt, often worn as an undergarment to add a layer between a tunic and the skin. A surcoat can look great over a shirt or undertunic. Dresses are always visible in Amtgard culture, with varying lengths and styles. Many people like to augment their torso layer with a corset, worn both under the garb as a posture trainer and over the garb as an accent piece.

For warmth, most Amtgardians default to a cloak, with styles and lengths depending on personal taste. Some cloaks are hooded, or have sleeves, while others are more simple rectangles fastened around the body. Coats are also popular, like the Norse kaftan. Materials for cloaks range from think satin to thick wool.

Bottoms

Unless you are wearing a long garment on top, bottoms are a must. The most common contender are trousers, though some people cheat with dark-colored jeans. Skirts are also popular, and can be as thin or fluffy as the wearer desires. A common sight in Amtgard are wrap pants, and their cousin hakama, both intended to wrap and tie around the wearer's waist. Some who wish to wear more period bottoms might try hose fitted to their legs, or chauces and braies.

Shoes

Shoes are often a point of contention among the Amtgard population, as good leather shoes either require leather working skills or a decent chunk of change, which some Amtgardians don't have. When medieval-looking leather shoes aren't an option for any reason, it's common for players to wear neutral-colored sneakers or boots. A thrifty player can often find used boots at second-hand stores if they are willing to search.

To kick it up a notch, plain shoes can be augmented with spats to hide the modern aspect of already-owned shoes.

When money or time aren't issues, pair of leather shoes or boots can be a solid addition to a garb wardrobe. Pre-made or cutsom-made shoes by artians are not cheap, but can be a perfect fit and made to order. Learning to make your own turnshoes is time-consuming, but can cut costs far down and be a wonderful A&S entry.

Accessories

Good accessories can add a fine touch to garb. The most common accessory, used by almost every Amtgardian, is an o-ring belt. Belts are essential for keeping tunics from billowing while fighting and moving. Some people prefer a buckled belt, both for looks and support. Solid white and red belts are reserved colors, representing knights and squires respectively. Black and yellow belts often indicate men at arms and pages, but are worn by a variety of people.

The belt can serve a secondary function of acting as a place to hang pouches and belt favors, which can be accessories unto themselves. Some fighters like to hold their weapon in a sword frog, while a small minority prefer to craft a boffer-friendly scabbard.

From the Rulebook

Each class has its own particular garb parameters. In addition, there are certain other garb elements that denote special positions. Additionally you may receive a Look the Part bonus for your class if your garb portrays your class well. Note that all battlefield participants must be in “period” garb (tunic, robe, Armor, etc.):

  1. White belts (any belt more than 25% white), unadorned chains, and spurs are reserved for knights and may not be worn by others. A knight may also choose to trim a knight's white belt with a color particular to that order of knighthood: Gold for Knight of the Crown, Silver for Knight of the Sword, Red for Knight of the Flame, and Green for Knight of the Serpent.
  2. Red belts (any belt more than 50% red) are generally only worn by squires.
  3. Black belts with silver trim are generally only worn by men-at arms.
  4. The phoenix is the symbol of Amtgard. White and Black Phoenixes are reserved for knights. Gold Phoenix on red background is reserved for Warlord. Otherwise, the phoenix is generally only worn as part of kingdom heraldry.
  5. A sash in the color of their class decorated with a silver trim is the reserved symbol for Paragons (Class Masterhood)
  6. Guildmasters are entitled to wear favors marked with the symbol of their guild.
  7. The use of crowns and coronets is reserved for royalty and nobility, although their retainers may wear the symbol of a crown on their garb.
  8. Most companies and many individuals choose to register their personal symbols and colors. While not specifically disallowed, it is considered bad form to use another’s coat of arms without his agreement. Personal symbols and colors should be registered with the Guildmaster of Heraldry and the Prime Minister.
  9. The garb of a page is a yellow belt and is generally not worn by others.
  10. The use and application of good garb is important in creating the correct mood of the Amtgard battlegames and events. All members must be garbed in a “period” fashion. Newcomers should have their own garb (and weapons) within a month of having first attended Amtgard. It is easy and inexpensive to fashion a T-tunic or tabard, and plenty of people are willing to help. If you have questions about garb or any area of the rules, then all you have to do is ask.
  11. For the purpose of determining what class people are playing, class sashes must run diagonally across the chest from one shoulder to the opposite hip. They must be at least two inches wide. You may not wear sashes for classes you are not currently playing. Paladin and Anti-Paladin symbols must be at least 5 inches by 5 inches.

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