Garb
N. Garb is the costume that players wear.
Contents
In History
Clothing (also called clothes, accoutrements, accouterments, or habiliments) protects the human body from extreme weather and other features of the environment. It is worn for safety, comfort, modesty and to reflect religious, cultural and social meaning.
The practical function of clothing is to protect the human body from dangers in the environment: weather (strong sunlight, extreme heat or cold, and precipitation, for example), insects, noxious chemicals, weapons, and contact with abrasive substances, and other hazards. Clothing can protect against many things that might injure the naked human body. In some cases, clothing protects the environment from the clothing wearer as well (example: medical scrubs).
According to archaeologists and anthropologists, the earliest clothing probably consisted of fur, leather, leaves or grass, draped, wrapped or tied about the body for protection from the elements. Knowledge of such clothing remains inferential, since clothing materials deteriorate quickly compared to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts. Archeologists have identified very early sewing needles of bone and ivory from about 30,000 BC, found near Kostenki, Russia in 1988.
In many societies, people of high rank reserve special items of clothing or decoration for themselves as symbols of their social status. In ancient times, only Roman senators were permitted wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple; only high-ranking Hawaiian chiefs wore feather cloaks and palaoa or carved whale teeth. Under the Travancore kingdom of Kerala (India), lower caste women had to pay a tax for the right to cover their upper body. In China before the establishment of the republic, only the emperor could wear yellow. In many cases throughout history, there have been elaborate systems of sumptuary laws regulating who could wear what. In other societies (including most modern societies) no laws prohibit lower-status people wearing high status garments, but the high cost of status garments effectively limits their purchase and display. In current Western society, only the rich can afford haute couture. The threat of social ostracism may also limit garment choice. If one is not wearing a specific brand or style of clothing one's social status may fall. 1
In Amtgard
There are probably aspects of Amtgard more important than garb but it has to figure near the top of the list. This statement is prejudiced, of course as I am into garb both by predilection and by edict. Stop and think about garb for just a minute. Would Amtgard be as much fun without garb? Picture a feast without garb! Why is garb so satisfying? Why is any Amtgard function enhanced by garb? I think one of the biggest reasons is the difficulty in expressing, via what you wear, your true personality/persona in the mundane world. Let us face it, folks, mundanity by the verydefinition of the word, i.e., mundane (1) of the world, (2) commonplace, everyday, ordi-nary, etc., is boring! This is not to say you should give in to that impulse and wear a capeto school or carry a broadsword to work but it is good for the psyche to wear a cape andcarry a broadsword sometimes- hence Amtgard and garb.
Let us consider the word garb. According to Webster’s New World Dictionary of the American Language, Second College Edition: garb (garb) n. (OFr. garbe, graceful-ness - It. garbo, elegance, prob. ult. -Gr. kalopsois, making beautiful - kalos, beautiful +poiein, to make [see POET]) 1. clothing; manner or style of dress, esp. as characteristic of an occupation, profession, or rank. 2. external form, covering, or appearance 3. (obs) style; manner - vt. to clothe; dress; attire. Note the words used in reference to garb, “gracefulness, elegance, beautiful, style”. Quite a difference from commonplace, everyday, ordinary, and etc., wouldn’t you say? I especially like the reference to the word poet. I personally think garb and the marvelous words used to describe it are stronglytied to appropriateness. In other words, a bikini can be graceful and elegant at poolsidebut just the opposite at a symphony. Most of us have already spotted the obvious in thatwe normally will not wear feast garb to a ditch battle. Not only do satins, brocades, andvelvets not take to intimate association with grass, dirt, rocks, and etc. but who can afford to have them dry cleaned once a week! This is however, not to say that fighting garb cannot be elegant and graceful. Combining these two virtues with sturdiness and ease ofupkeep is not as difficult as it may appear. Basically, dress garb and fighting garb are much alike in design. It is in the materialused that difference is apparent. Three basic patterns will serve to produce a basic garbwardrobe. Weare of course referring to (1) T-tunic, (2) Basic pants, and (3) Basic skirt.With modification of material and length the three basics can be expanded into a closet fullof garb and take you from feast to fray in comfort and style.The most (MOST!!) important thing to keep in mind when considering the start ofyour engarbment is fit. This cannot be stressed too heavily. Take your time- measureeverything- twice! Create your three patterns to fit you exactly and then never worryabout the fit again. I would even go so far as to use scrap material for first piece utilizing your personalized patterns. Cut up an old sheet. Who cares if it has purple and pink gardenias on it?-this is for fit only. Sew up the major seams and try it on. Make sure you have a friend available to check thefit from the sides and back. Also make sure your friend won’t laugh themselves silly over the gardenias.Modify the pattern if necessary being sure to mark the changes on the pattern itself and then go looking forsuitable material. Suitable material is anything that fits the following requirements:
FIGHTING GARB:1.Preferably a material that looks natural. Obvious synthetics just don’t look very realistic. Go forcotton/poly blends, linen/poly blends, wool or wool blends.2.The rougher the treatment the garb is liable to receive the heavier/sturdier the material should be. Forpants use the twills, gaberdines, denims or the heavier wool blends. Use unbleached/bleached muslin for agood, cheap choice for shirts. Lighter weight twills, etc. are fine for tunics.
DRESS GARB:1.Anything goes. Anything! Just keep in mind that the more plush and/or delicate the material the moredifficult upkeep is going to be.
THE FOLLOWING IS ONE EXAMPLE OF A BASIC STARTER WARDROBE: FEMALE:
- Medium weight cotton skirt in dark gray.
- T-tunic, long sleeved in off white.
- T-tunic, wider gathered sleeve in a dark burgundy.
- Light weight skirt in dark burgundy.
- T-tunic made to floor length in a very fine cotton, light gray for feasts, etc.
- T-tunic, short sleeved in dark gray.
MALE:
- Heavy to medium weight twill pants in dark brown.
- T-tunic, short sleeved in tan.
- T-tunic, long narrow sleeve in blue.
- Medium weight pants in blue for dress events (feasts, etc.).
- T-tunic, long, wide, gathered sleeve in off white muslin or cotton.
- An over-tunic, sleeveless or a very short, capped sleeve to wear over the muslin shirt and the blue shirt.
- Make up in very dark blue.
Now, add some accessories in the way of belts, shawls, jewlery, belt pouches and etc. and you aregarbed. Look at the above lists and figure out the number of different combinations you can make out of fiveor six items. With the basics listed you can expand your garb wardrobe geometrically by selective additions ofjust one or two more clothing items. For instance, add a short vest to either wardrobe and see how many morecombinations you can come up with. A cape, especially a reversible one, will add even more dimension toyour options. Keep it basic- add fancier stuff later, when you can afford garb so specialized it can only beworn one way.
SHOES- THE MOST DIFFICULT PARTOF GARBING: Garb shoes. Where on Earth do you get them? Is there really such a thing? Do you have to spend afortune and have them custom made? The answers to all of these questions are (1) Wherever you can findthem. (2) Yes, there really are garb shoes. and (3) No, not necessarily.Where do you get them? Shop a lot in “cheap” areas such as South El Paso. Some of those strangelittle shops will occasionally have the perfect soft boot or funky, totally medieval sandal you have been lustingfor. I would also recommend keeping an eye on the large department stores at the various malls. I have foundseveral pair of good garb boots at department stores- on sale yet!Major Renaissance events often have merchants selling garb shoes. Amtgard Garber’sGuild has alsopublished patterns for soft cloth or leather shoes. If your belt pouch is of sufficient depth and weight you canalso have boots custom made but.... be prepared to shop all over town for a bootmaker who has anything buta western type boot pattern. You’ll have better luck in Juarez, Mexico or similar areas with lower prices.Dress shoes for male and female are not nearly as difficult to obtain as the daily wear shoe or boot.Believe it or not the modern version of cloth or leather bedroom slipper is often so close to a traditional garbshoe as to make no difference.Whichever route you choose to take in your pursuit of garb shoes, be prepared to spend time if notmoney and keep fingers crossed as you will also need some luck!CAPES: No comment save, see various Garber’sGuild publications for patterns and make sure you have atleast one good all weather cape. see Footwear
ACCESSORIES:You will need and want the various items so necessary to add flair and panache to your garb. “Items”can range from jewlery, belts, pins, belt pouches, favors and headgear, to you name it. Best of all, accessoryitems seem to be the easiest to find or make. Again, areas like South El Paso are happy hunting grounds for thestrange and/or funky. Flea markets are also a good source for weird and wonderful “items”.
ONE LAST COMMENT:When you have taken care of appropriateness and fit for your basic garb keep in mind a very impor-tant condition not heretofore mentioned. That condition is quality of workmanship. What a waste to have agood pattern, really suitable material and then nullify the entire effort by casual or downright shoddy workman-ship, unless your persona is a serf, slave, or beggar, of course. These three personas positively require gross,raveled, and scruffy garb. Another point, beside the aesthetic, is why would you take the considerable amountof time and trouble to assure pattern fit and expend your dollars on material to make up garb in such a manneras to assure it will not last beyond a few wearings? Not me. I’m too lazy to sew up anything that will not standthe tests of time, wear, and multiple washings. If you are not sure of your sewing technique find someone whois then pick their brain or, if you have enough charm or a large enough club, convince some master seamstress/tailor to make up the garb for you. GO FORTH AND GARB! (editor’s note- The Garb Book, a comprehensive guide to Amtgard garbing, is forthcoming from Gwynne).
From the 7.2 Rulebook Section. Battlegame
Here follows some restrictions and guildlines for garb taken directly from the rulebook
Each class has its own particular garb parameters. In addition, there are certain other garb elements that denote special positions. Note that all battlefield participants must be in “period” garb (tunic, robe, Armor, etc.):
- White belts (any belt more than 25% white), unadorned chains, and spurs are reserved for knights and may not be worn by others.A knight may also choose to trim a knight's white belt with a color particular to that order of knighthood: Gold for Knight of the Crown, Silver for Knight of the Sword, Red for Knight of the Flame, and Green for Knight of the Serpent.
- Red belts (any belt more than 50% red) are generally only worn by squires.
- Black belts with silver trim are generally only worn by men-at arms.
- The Phoenix is the symbol of Amtgard. White and Black Phoenixes are reserved for knights. Gold Phoenix on red background is reserved for Warlord. Otherwise, the phoenix is generally only worn as part of kingdom heraldry.
- A diagonal slash of a guild’s distinct color, worn on a belt, baldric or tunic, is the mark of a class master.
- Guildmasters are entitled to wear favors marked with the symbol of their guild.
- The use of crowns and coronets is reserved for royalty and Noble, although their retainers may wear the symbol of a crown on their garb.
- Most companies and many individuals choose to register their personal symbols and colors. While not specifically disallowed, it is considered bad form to use another’s coat of arms without his agreement. Personal symbols and colors should be registered with the Guildmaster of Heraldry and the Prime Minister.
- Single color belt favors are indicative of a fighter’s relative standing within the fraternity of Order of the Warrior.
- The garb of a page is a yellow belt (not a sash as per wizard) and is generally not worn by others. A non-fighting page must also wear a gold “enchantment” strip if on the field.
- The use and application of good garb is important in creating the correct mood of the Amtgard battlegames and events. All members must be garbed in a “period” fashion. Newcomers should have their own garb (and weapons) within a month of having first attended Amtgard. It is easy and inexpensive to fashion a T-tunic or Tabard, and plenty of people are willing to help. If you have questions about garb or any area of the rules, then all you have to do is ask.
- For the purpose of determining what class people are playing, class sashes must run diagonally across the chest from one shoulder to the opposite hip. They must be at least two inches wide. You may not wear sashes for Class you are not currently playing. Paladin and Anti-Paladin symbols must be at least 5 inches by 5 inches.
Types of garb
See these entries for tutorials and examples Also see Fighting Garb and Court Garb
