Difference between revisions of "Tunic"

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A type of [[Garb]]
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[[File:Claw Tunic.jpg|thumb|right|[[Rift]] wearing a classic style old style [[Claw]] tunic with [[applique]] around the hem and sleeves]]
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A '''tunic''' is the most common piece of [[garb]] in Amtgard, and is considered the standard piece of torso garb for all genders. It's a simple garment of varying length, reaching from the shoulders to anywhere between the hips and the ankles. It will almost always have sleeves, contrary to the [[tabard]] or [[surcoat]] that do not. Tunics can range from plain fabric to elaborately decorated, often with motifs representing [[fighting companies]] or personal symbols.
  
===Description;===
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==Use of tunics==
The tunic is "standard" torso garb. It will almost always have sleeves and closed sides, unlike a [[Tabard]] which has open sides.
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The tunic has been commonplace throughout history, in daily living and in religious ceremony, from the ancient Greeks through the modern day. Tunics represented an easily made garment that could be worn by all members of society. Tunics were made in many different fabrics, colors, and levels of decoration depending on a person's position, wealth, and even their place of origin.
  
Tunics are sometimes called a 'Bell Tunics'. The 'Bell' refers to the belled shape of the bottom of the Tunic, This is created using triangle shaped gores or cutting the body of the Tunic with sides that slope outward. The garment it's self is pattered on a very large T-shirt.
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===Historic tunics===
====Historical Finds====
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The word "tunic" derives from the Latin word ''tunica''. It evolved from the Greek ''chiton'', a similar garment, and adopted by both citizens and non-citizens in the Roman Empire. The tunics of male citizens might be worn under a ''toga'' in certain occasions. Both the Greek and Roman varieties of tunic were cut and decorated to indicate wealth, status, and place of origin.
[[Image:Hdbytunc.gif|thumb|Component pieces of a historical bell tunic found in Birka, Sweden]]
 
The garments of the fifth-century jarl buried at Evebø, Norway, are too fragmentary to determine the way they were made. The remains are mainly useful for what they reveal about tunic length, decoration, and layering. The two wool garments were found in situ with one worn over the other. The red undertunic had elaborate tablet-woven wool trim at the neck, wrists, and hem, with bronze wrist clasps; it came down as far as the knee. The overtunic had a different type of tablet-woven wool trim at the neck, plus silver clasps in some undetermined location (Magnus 1982, 68-69). Given the existence of the silver clasps, as well as the striking appearance of the undertunic, the overgarment may well have been some sort of a coat designed to augment, rather than cover, the undertunic; the clasps might have held it together on the chest.
 
  
The excavations at Birka, Sweden, which cover the ninth and tenth centuries, did not include entire garments. However, the pieces of clothing that were found there yielded quite a bit of information on different types of tunic-type garments, including smocks, tunics, and coats. There is plenty of evidence for linen smocks, wool tunics, wool and linen coats, and even one possibly Byzantine-style linen long tunic. Construction details common to them all include front and back panels cut in one piece, rather than two-piece construction with shoulder seams, and small round or keyhole necklines. Triangular gores were added for additional width in the skirt area of many garments. Unique to Birka is evidence for the woman's pleated smock from the tenth century; this style of undergarment would not have required gores for widening. Also unique to Birka is the men's sleeved "riding" coat closed on the chest with small cast bronze buttons running from neck to waist; it is thought to be influenced by Persian riding coats by way of Byzantium and the Rus lands. Some Birka women wore a similar overgarment, but instead of bronze buttons this coat was held together by a fancy brooch pinned through two small loops that were sewn to the two sides of the garment at the mid-chest. It is not known how long the women's coats were, but clearly if they were meant to be protective overgarments they would need to be rather long--and require more than one closure point in front!
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[[Image:Braies.jpg.jpeg|thumb|left|Example of typical working man's attire from 13th century England.]]
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The Celtic and Germanic people residing in the colder regions of Europe wore long-sleeve tunics, usually cut to hang at the mid-thigh or knee. Unlike the Roman tunic, this garment usually contained [[gussets]] under the arms and [[gores]] around the skirt for ease of motion. Both the Viking and the Normans eventually adopted this style.
  
Here below are suggested composite styles for a Birka tunic and coat. Note especially the dotted fold lines at the shoulders of both garments and the choice of two necklines offered on the drawing of the tunic garment.
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The tunic continued to be worn by both men and women during the Middle Ages, often over a [[shirt]] and [[braies]] or [[hose]]. People who could afford to decorated their tunics with [[embroidery]] or [[tablet-woven braids]] along the neck, hem and wrists.
======Some Construction Tips======
 
''(On historical tunics of the viking style)''
 
  
Decide how each element of the tunic should be constructed before cutting out anything; then, if need be, make patterns out of paper for each piece that you will need. If you do make paper patterns, be careful to label each pattern piece with the name of the intended wearer of the tunic, the name of the pattern piece (e.g., "sleeve"), and the date. That way you will have a record of how you made the tunic; then you can repeat it if the tunic happens to come out perfect, or adjust the pattern pieces if the tunic isn't perfect.
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===Fantasy tunics===
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Throughout much of fantasy literature and cinema, tunics are used as the basic form of clothing, similar to their use in history. The pattern used for these tunics may differ from their simple historical counterparts, sometimes looking more like modern clothing, or with added cuts and embellishments to fit the theme of the world.
  
The front and back panels of a tunic work fairly well if they are as wide as the measurement between the points of the shoulders, plus seam allowances on both sides. Gores can be as narrow or as wide as you like, but if they are too wide they will hang in deep folds rather than draping gracefully.
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===Tunics in Amtgard===
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Tunics are universal throughout Amtgard culture, regardless of [[kingdom]]. In our game, tunics might be called "bell tunics", "t-tunics", or "circle tunics", often in reference to the cut of the garment. Each has a different connotation in different geographical areas, with some prefering the gored bell tunic over a more simple t-tunic, or vice-versa. Length can go from just below the hips to below the knees again, with kingdom styles pervading.
  
It is almost impossible to reconstruct the sleeve length and overall length of Viking garments from the pieces that remain. Since sleeves were designed to be close-fitting at the lower end, it is likely that they were wrist-length. Iconographic evidence suggests that tunics were worn at least to mid-thigh, probably down as far as the knee. Jackets seem to have been on the short side, while Birka riding coats were probably longer than the garments they were worn over, perhaps even calf-length. Women's gowns might in some cases have extended only to the lower calf or, as depicted in some figurines, drag behind with a miniature train effect, depending on what sort of work may have needed to be performed while wearing them. Ankle-length gowns and smocks suit the climate and activity level of Pennsic very well, while the train effect is very attractive in a Court setting.
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Tunics are worn by both brand new players and the oldest veterans. Older players and better garbers, as well as people willing to pay for quality, might sport a more embellished tunic than their peers. Alternatively, players who wish to wear minimum garb requirements might prefer a plain tunic, or a new player might wear a lower quality tunic until they can make or buy a better one.  
  
Evidence for Viking garments frequently includes linings; in particular, the coat garment was often lined with silk or linen. Necklines were generally not faced, but enclosed by or edged with durable or decorative trimmings. This effect can be achieved in a variety of ways--by the use of bias tape, purchased trim, braided wool yarn, tablet-weaving, or silk edgings cut out of larger pieces of fabric.
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The design and colors of a tunic often signify a type of allegiance. People often wear garb in the colors of their [[company]], [[household]], [[kingdom]], or [[park]]. The design might also represent a piece of nerd/geek culture, or their own [[heraldry]], or simply a design that the wearer thinks looks good.
===How to===
 
'''T- Tunic''' from [http://thescholarsgarret.com/northernshores/tunic1.html Fransis] <br>
 
First, obtain your material. Most t-tunics go to just above the knees, but they can also go right to the floor. The length of the cloth should be just a bit more than twice the distance from your shoulder to where you want it to hang to. The width (ideally) will be at least the distance between your wrists when your arms are held out to your sides. Pick a material that's easy to work with. Wool is easiest to work with, since you don't have to treat the edges to keep it from fraying too badly. An old army blanket in olive drab or deep red (not orange!) is ideal. A grey blanket can be left as-is or dyed blue.
 
Alternatively, you can use broadcloth or whatever you find in the remnants bin. Strong, primary colours are best, with browns and tans less usual. The concept of "matching" was unheard of in the early Middle Ages, and it was common to wear red with green and yellow.
 
  
Second, fold the cloth in quarters, raw edges together first and selvedges together second. Note the corner that corresponds with the centre of the fabric.[[Image:Tunic how to.gif|left]]
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Tunics are sometimes given as gifts to new [[knights]], along with a [[white belt]] and [[spurs]], and might be [[applique]]d with the symbol of their [[knighthood]].
  
Third, take a loose fitting sweatshirt or tee-shirt and fold it in half, lengthwise. Lay it on the folded fabric with the lengthwise folds together and the neck at the corner that corresponds with the centre of the cloth.
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==Making a tunic==
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[[Image:Hdbytunc.gif|left|thumb|Component pieces of a historical bell tunic]]
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[[Image:Lilac standing tunic.jpeg|thumb|Simple tunic made from a variation of the basic "bell tunic" pattern]]
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Historic tunics were made from as little fabric as possible, and this is reflected in the patterns to make tunics in Amtgard. Common patterns require straight seams, few measurements, and have a large margin of error. This makes tunics a very good beginner's garb project, though the addition of applique and embellishments can make a complex tunic a challenge for even the most talented of garbers.
  
Mark the outline of the t-tunic using your shirt as a guide. Leave an inch or more for seam allowance and to allow a bit of looseness in the fit. Extend the sleeve line out to the edge of the fabric. Choose either a close fitting sleeve (solid line) or a wide, hanging sleeve (dashed line, usually for women). Extend the sides into a skirt and mark the bottom in an arc.
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===Materials===
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Historic tunics were usually made of [[wool]], [[linen]], or - if you were rich - [[silk]]. The choice of materials depended on location, supply, and economic prosperity. These materials still hold up for tunics today. It is recommend to use solid cotton fabric like Kona Cotton or linen. It is also recommended to avoid synthetic fabrics as they do not breath, meaning the fabric will prevent heat and moisture from escaping. Depending on the size, sleeve length, and hem length, tunics can take two to four yards of fabric.
  
Fourth, take your shirt off the cloth and cut where you've marked.
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Contrary to popular belief, the colors of fabrics in history were not muted and dull. It was simple to get bright colors from natural sources. Even poor people were often able to afford to color their clothing in bright reds, oranges, yellows, greens, and blues, depending on the region and availability of natural dying materials. In some instances, people patterned their clothing in plaids and motifs common to their culture. When fantasy sources are also considered, having clothing of many bright colors is thematic and medieval.
  
Fifth, make the neck hole. Be careful! Most people don't know how tiny their neck really is... measure the thing, first.
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===Taking measurements===
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Most patterns for tunics require a few measurements to be taken, usually around the head, neck, chest, waist, and/or hips. Since the garment is usually loose, more measurements often are not needed.
  
Open the cloth out by one fold and make a "D" shape centered on the fold and as big as your neck. Your neck sort-of grows out of the front of your chest, not straight up between your shoulders. The neck hole must reflect this or your garb will ride against the front of your neck and be uncomfortable.
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===Patterns===
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[[Image:IMG 8774-1.jpg|100px|thumb|Child's parti-colored tunic with simple [[applique]] and hood]]
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There are many patterns for tunics, depending on the desired look. There are two most common patterns, both simple but slightly different. The "T-tunic", a straighter and looser pattern with less seams, is the simplest pattern but the least fitted. It is only appropriate for shorter tunics, as the skirt allows for less movement, and is cut similarly to a t-shirt. The "bell tunic", the more complex of the two, has more seams but ends up more fitted. The wider skirt is necessary for tunics longer than mid-thigh, which allows for greater movement when walking and on the battlefield.
  
Flip the cloth over and mark a MUCH shallower "D" on the back. Cut this out.
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====T-tunic====
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[[Image:Tunic how to.gif|thumb|left|An example diagram of the t-tunic making process]]
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The simplicity of the t-tunic comes from the lack of measurements needed; many instructions only require a baggy t-shirt for marking out the size. Other patterns require only a couple measurements. The downside to this pattern is that, since it isn't based in historical fact or fantastical fit, many patterns use up a lot more fabric that the fabric-saving bell tunic. Most t-tunics go to just above the knees, but they can also go right to the floor, though this is less than ideal for fighting.
  
To get it over your head, you need a hole bigger than your neck. Cut a slit down the front of the tunic from the neck hole just far enough so that you can get your head through. Cut this by degrees until it's just right. Since this makes the neck look a bit like a keyhole, it's called a keyhole neck.
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*[http://www.amtgard-eh.com/library/howtotunic.html How to] by [[Sir]] [[Squeak!]]
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*[http://www.alonatwotrees.com/library/howto/how2tunic.pdf How To PDF] by [[Vaargard]], also detailing different types of necklines
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*[http://www.ehow.com/video_4411681_make-outfits-amtgard-live-rpg.html Example video] by [[Sir]] [[Forest]], with an example of a t-tunic
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*[http://www.calistonarmory.com/index.php/download_file/view/6/66/ PDF] by [[Sir]] [[Celdic Fitz Caliston]], with a hybrid t/bell variant, and applique instructions
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*[https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzd6VKb7oFF3eXdnOXZPNEVzX1E/view?usp=sharing  Frú Ka'a's Basic Tunic Tutorial]
  
[[Image:Tunic5.gif|thumb|"Garments consisting of two straight-cut main pieces -- front and back -- joined together with a shoulder seam. Side gores inserted between the main pieces, combining with them to form sleeve openings. No gores actually inserted in the main pieces. Pocket slits occur. Long sleeve, tapering downwards, cut with an upper and lower part. Gores under the sleeves."]]
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====Bell tunic====
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The bell tunic is a history and fantasy favorite; the sweeping skirt allows for ease of movement, especially when fighting. The downside is that it's more complex than a t-tunic, though the seams are simple and the gussest relieve pressure and prevent ripping. Bell tunics can extend all the way down to the ankles, though the common length for combatants in Amtgard is to the knee. If patterned correctly, it can even use less fabric than most t-tunic patterns.
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*[http://www.alonatwotrees.com/library/howto/lindensbasictunics.pdf Instructions] by [[Dame]] [[Linden]], featuring a more fitted version with set-in sleeves.
  
'''Bell Tunic'''
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[[Category:Amtgard Things]]
 
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[[Category:Amtgard Terms]]
===Links===
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[[Category:Amtgard Resources]]
 
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[[Category:How To]]
*[http://www.ehow.com/video_4411681_make-outfits-amtgard-live-rpg.html Video] on tunics and garb by [[Forest]]
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[[Category:Garb]]
*[http://www.amtgardinc.com/bldocs/newbie.pdf How to] from the beginners guide
 
[[Category:Amtgard Things]] [[Category:Amtgard Terms]]
 

Latest revision as of 00:46, 11 June 2022

Rift wearing a classic style old style Claw tunic with applique around the hem and sleeves

A tunic is the most common piece of garb in Amtgard, and is considered the standard piece of torso garb for all genders. It's a simple garment of varying length, reaching from the shoulders to anywhere between the hips and the ankles. It will almost always have sleeves, contrary to the tabard or surcoat that do not. Tunics can range from plain fabric to elaborately decorated, often with motifs representing fighting companies or personal symbols.

Use of tunics

The tunic has been commonplace throughout history, in daily living and in religious ceremony, from the ancient Greeks through the modern day. Tunics represented an easily made garment that could be worn by all members of society. Tunics were made in many different fabrics, colors, and levels of decoration depending on a person's position, wealth, and even their place of origin.

Historic tunics

The word "tunic" derives from the Latin word tunica. It evolved from the Greek chiton, a similar garment, and adopted by both citizens and non-citizens in the Roman Empire. The tunics of male citizens might be worn under a toga in certain occasions. Both the Greek and Roman varieties of tunic were cut and decorated to indicate wealth, status, and place of origin.

Example of typical working man's attire from 13th century England.

The Celtic and Germanic people residing in the colder regions of Europe wore long-sleeve tunics, usually cut to hang at the mid-thigh or knee. Unlike the Roman tunic, this garment usually contained gussets under the arms and gores around the skirt for ease of motion. Both the Viking and the Normans eventually adopted this style.

The tunic continued to be worn by both men and women during the Middle Ages, often over a shirt and braies or hose. People who could afford to decorated their tunics with embroidery or tablet-woven braids along the neck, hem and wrists.

Fantasy tunics

Throughout much of fantasy literature and cinema, tunics are used as the basic form of clothing, similar to their use in history. The pattern used for these tunics may differ from their simple historical counterparts, sometimes looking more like modern clothing, or with added cuts and embellishments to fit the theme of the world.

Tunics in Amtgard

Tunics are universal throughout Amtgard culture, regardless of kingdom. In our game, tunics might be called "bell tunics", "t-tunics", or "circle tunics", often in reference to the cut of the garment. Each has a different connotation in different geographical areas, with some prefering the gored bell tunic over a more simple t-tunic, or vice-versa. Length can go from just below the hips to below the knees again, with kingdom styles pervading.

Tunics are worn by both brand new players and the oldest veterans. Older players and better garbers, as well as people willing to pay for quality, might sport a more embellished tunic than their peers. Alternatively, players who wish to wear minimum garb requirements might prefer a plain tunic, or a new player might wear a lower quality tunic until they can make or buy a better one.

The design and colors of a tunic often signify a type of allegiance. People often wear garb in the colors of their company, household, kingdom, or park. The design might also represent a piece of nerd/geek culture, or their own heraldry, or simply a design that the wearer thinks looks good.

Tunics are sometimes given as gifts to new knights, along with a white belt and spurs, and might be appliqued with the symbol of their knighthood.

Making a tunic

Component pieces of a historical bell tunic
Simple tunic made from a variation of the basic "bell tunic" pattern

Historic tunics were made from as little fabric as possible, and this is reflected in the patterns to make tunics in Amtgard. Common patterns require straight seams, few measurements, and have a large margin of error. This makes tunics a very good beginner's garb project, though the addition of applique and embellishments can make a complex tunic a challenge for even the most talented of garbers.

Materials

Historic tunics were usually made of wool, linen, or - if you were rich - silk. The choice of materials depended on location, supply, and economic prosperity. These materials still hold up for tunics today. It is recommend to use solid cotton fabric like Kona Cotton or linen. It is also recommended to avoid synthetic fabrics as they do not breath, meaning the fabric will prevent heat and moisture from escaping. Depending on the size, sleeve length, and hem length, tunics can take two to four yards of fabric.

Contrary to popular belief, the colors of fabrics in history were not muted and dull. It was simple to get bright colors from natural sources. Even poor people were often able to afford to color their clothing in bright reds, oranges, yellows, greens, and blues, depending on the region and availability of natural dying materials. In some instances, people patterned their clothing in plaids and motifs common to their culture. When fantasy sources are also considered, having clothing of many bright colors is thematic and medieval.

Taking measurements

Most patterns for tunics require a few measurements to be taken, usually around the head, neck, chest, waist, and/or hips. Since the garment is usually loose, more measurements often are not needed.

Patterns

Child's parti-colored tunic with simple applique and hood

There are many patterns for tunics, depending on the desired look. There are two most common patterns, both simple but slightly different. The "T-tunic", a straighter and looser pattern with less seams, is the simplest pattern but the least fitted. It is only appropriate for shorter tunics, as the skirt allows for less movement, and is cut similarly to a t-shirt. The "bell tunic", the more complex of the two, has more seams but ends up more fitted. The wider skirt is necessary for tunics longer than mid-thigh, which allows for greater movement when walking and on the battlefield.

T-tunic

An example diagram of the t-tunic making process

The simplicity of the t-tunic comes from the lack of measurements needed; many instructions only require a baggy t-shirt for marking out the size. Other patterns require only a couple measurements. The downside to this pattern is that, since it isn't based in historical fact or fantastical fit, many patterns use up a lot more fabric that the fabric-saving bell tunic. Most t-tunics go to just above the knees, but they can also go right to the floor, though this is less than ideal for fighting.

Bell tunic

The bell tunic is a history and fantasy favorite; the sweeping skirt allows for ease of movement, especially when fighting. The downside is that it's more complex than a t-tunic, though the seams are simple and the gussest relieve pressure and prevent ripping. Bell tunics can extend all the way down to the ankles, though the common length for combatants in Amtgard is to the knee. If patterned correctly, it can even use less fabric than most t-tunic patterns.