Chiffon
I wrote a bunch about chiffon on one of the Facebook a&s groups, and I didn't want it lost to the ages due to the unarchiveable mess that is FB. So I am posting it here as well. Please notate anything I forgot/don't know about the fabric. I'm always looking for more tips.
Preshrinking isn't needed, but prewashing isn't ever a bad idea. I handwash chiffon in with 1 tablespoon of baby shampoo or the Woolite that is for delicates.
Garments made of chiffon should be one-third to one-half larger than your hip measurement and at least one-quarter larger than your bust due to the way the fabric drapes. Especially if it is rayon or poly chiffon as they don't conform well to the body. Only layout a single thickness at a time if you are using a pattern. Make fullsize cut on fold pieces so that you can layout those single thickness as well. Keeping the chiffon immobile is necessary so I cut it on the floor rather than a table as it allows me to pin fabric and pattern both together right into the carpet. Use extra fine, new, sharp pins. Don't use waxed chalk as it will stain. I'd go with air-erasable chalk (Clo? I think Clo is the brand name) or standard chalk. Cut with a sharp scissors for this one as a rotary cutter can shift while you cut.
Avoid interfacing. If you can't organza, preferably silk organza or more of the chiffon. Poly thread will pucker so use a fine (2-ply machine embroidery rather than the usual 3-ply stuff) cotton or silk, cotton-wrapped poly is fine for rayon or poly chiffon but not silk. Needles need to be as fine as possible, such as a 60/8 or 65/9 microtex. Use a fresh needle, a dull needle will also cause puckering, and use a very short stitch length. I like 1.5 to 2.0mm straight stitch for soft transparant fabrics using a straight stitch or roller foot. Lightly balance your tension if you have the option. Sew tautly, holding both the back and front of your fabric evenly, and do not go at top speed for your machine. Slow is fast with chiffon. When you start sewing, hold the top and bobbin threads until you have enough fabric fed through to hold. Also, don't backstitch. That way lies puckery madness. Knot your thread ends by hand (or with the machine's knotting function if your machine has one). If you have to hand sew anything, go with a size 8 needle.
Seam finishers should be narrow French seams, false French, or taped seams. On long seams I'd sew a teeny tiny zig zap in the seam allowance prior to finishing the seams to prevent the fabric from drawing up. Do not topstitch. For hems, I like thread fuse. Awesome stuff thread-fuse. After that, hand roll the hem, but have hem allowance very narrow, 3 or 4mm. You could also serge with fine thread and then roll the hem. Press hems as you work them with a clean, dry iron on the silk setting (absolutely no steam) and a press cloth.
If you are lining, go with something featherweight. If you are using closures, I'd go with fabric loops rather than button holes, but if you want button holes, fine embroidery thread in silk or cotton. If zippers, interface with organza and sorry, you'll have to hand-pick them. The YouTubes can show you how to do that if you don't know.
That's everything I can think of about chiffon. Chiffon is pretty much the hardest fabric to sew (except maybe georgette or that needle-eating bullshit with the glued-on sequins). Take your time, chiffon doesn't like to be rushed. Hopefully someone will get use out of this ridiculously long post.
Credit: Arciduquesa Dama Casca Eruoy of the Duchy of the Iron Mountains.
also of note, serrated scissors will grip better than normal shears, and i personally prefer hair cutting scissors even more to serrated . . . i always encourage folks to use a real cutting board made of homosote, then use pattern weights or push pins to hold your fabric in place . . .but yeah, most folks don't. carpet will work, as will cardboard over a table . . . papered homoste tables are pretty uber in comparison though . . .when laying out make sure your grain is squared to your table (or carpet) edge and the grain is trued properly. i can't say i agree with your ease suggestions as i believe anything can be used with the proper amount of ease anywhere . . .but more ain't gonna hurt noone if they don't understand what proper means. and yeah, chalk, standard chalk . . . there are neat water heat/soluble ones that you can steam off that are cool . . .but really, blackboard chalk and just dust if off once you are done, cheap and stupid easy, take a razor blade to the edges to make it sharp like a tailors chalk if you haven't already
Credit: Clalibus
