Bliaut
French for: Costly material, A man's costume worn with armour or at court, A lady's court dress.
Most modern costumers use the third definition, a flowing court dress, with belled sleeves, a V neckline, tablet woven belt and a trailing hem.
The garment now known as the lady's bliaut is a product of the mid to late twelfth century, although it is clearly descended from similar gowns worn in the eleventh and early twelfth centuries. It appears to have been worn wherever French culture reached at the time, from England to the Crusader states, although the best and most famous examples of the bliaut in period artwork are the statue-columns at Chartres Cathedral, made from about 1145 to 1155 C.E.. It was clearly a fashionable gown worn by the nobility and royals, although lower-class versions of the gown are also represented in artwork of the period.
It is not known what fabrics were used at this time to make bliauts, although wool, linen, and silk were the three main possibilities in Europe at this time. Written works of the time make it appear certain that the preferred fabric for a fashionable bliaut was silk, although other fabrics were likely used as well, especially by those who could not afford the expensive silken fabrics. Undergowns, called chainses, were usually of linen during this era. Veils were preferably of fine silk, although other fabrics were certainly used by those who could not afford silk. Belts are not described, but the artwork shows patterned bands, often coordinating with the gown's trim, wrapped twice around the wearer's waist. Long cords are attached at each of the ends and are tied together before being allowed to hang to the wearer's calves, often with decorative knots along their length .
A medieval lady would wear these garments, along with any additional undergarments that might be necessary, under a cloak that was likely as much for warmth as fashion. Her shoes have only a slight point at the toe and may be patterned. If she is nobility a crown or circlet of some kind might be necessary to complete the ensemble (Aries, p. 508). Her hair is worn in two braids, usually hanging down her chest to hip level or beyond.
