Sewing Glossary

A-line gown Form fitting bodices that flare out from the waistline to a full skirt. These gowns have a seamless waist

A-line skirt/fit and flare skirt A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the hem

back drape A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that flows over the back to floor length. In some cases it is removable

back yoke A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of various garments

ball gown Characterized by a very full skirt that begins at the waist and continues to a formal length. The skirt waist is seamed and can be of various styles

Basque waist/V-waist This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a "V" shape

bateau neck/boat neck A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; the same depth in the front and back

besom pockets A pocket sewn inside the garment with access through a welted slit-type opening

bias cut Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that follow the body curves close

bolero jacket A loose, waist-length jacket open at the front

boot-cut Cut below the belly button and slightly flares from the knee to the ankle

box-pleated Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat

boy-leg Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that has a close fitting leg that reaches half way down the thigh

camisole A short, sleeveless garment for women

camp pockets Pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment, usually squared off and characterized by seaming

cap sleeve A small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage

capri pants Fairly straight-cut pants tapered to the mid-calf

cathedral train (Also known as a monarch train); a cascading train extending six to eight feet behind the gown, for the most formal weddings

chapel train The most popular of all train lengths, it flows from three to four feet behind the gown

diamond neck A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline

dolman sleeve Cut as an extension of the bodice and the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve

double-breasted Having one-half of the front lapped over the other and usually has a double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes

draped bodice An extra piece of material is draped over the bustline

dropped shoulders Characterized by the shoulder/sleeve seam falling off the shoulder

dropped waist/low waist A waistline that is sewn below the body natural waistline

empire bodice A bodice that ends just below the bust, sometimes low-cut and gathered

empire seams A seam that is sewn directly below the bustline

empire waist This waistline begins just below the bust

fitted point sleeve A long and narrow sleeve that tapers to a point which rests against the back of the hand

flat-front pants Straight pants often seamless and pocketless

form-fitting/slim-fit Straight from waist to ankle except for a slight curve around the hip

frog closure Chinese closing of decorative cording or braid. A soft ball of cording or a button is used to complete the closure

gaucho Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching mid-calf and worn with boots

gauntlets Dress gloves extending above the wrist

hankerchief style The hem of a blouse or skirt that is gently jagged to form flowing points

hip pockets Pockets which are sewn on the front of the garment at hip height

hook & eye closure A 2-part fastening device (as on a garment or a door) consisting of a metal hook that catches over a bar or into a loop

illusion bodice A bodice made of sheer material giving the illusion of no bodice

illusion sleeve A sleeve made of sheer material giving the illusion of no sleeve

intermission length/Hi-Lo An intermission-length gown features a hem falling between the knees and ankle; the Hi-Lo variation is a gown of intermission length on the front and floor length or longer in the back

kangaroo pocket A pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the garment leaving two open ends

keyhole neck A tear shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline

kimono A long robe with wide sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash

leg-of-mutton sleeve (Also known as a gigot sleeve) a loose, full sleeve, rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped to the arm, often ending in a point at the wrist

mandarin collar A short, stand-up collar, adopted from the close-fitting Asian collar

mermaid This skirt hugs the body until it reaches the knees or just below and then ends in a dramatic flare

natural waist A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the ribcage

notched collar A two-piece collar that can be only worn open

off-the-shoulder neck A neckline that lies gently hovering across the top of the bustline with the shoulders uncovered or able to be seen through the sheer yoke of net or organza attached to a high collar

overskirt A skirt worn over another skirt

peasant top Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free flowing material

peek-a-boo Any part of the garment which has been cut out to reveal skin

petticoat An underskirt usually a little shorter than outer clothing and often made with a ruffled, pleated, or lace edge

pieced A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form the garment, much like a quilt

pinafore Originally used to protect dresses from dirt, it was adopted as a fashion piece and worn as a sleeveless dress or over a blouse

placket The piece of cloth that reinforces a split or opening in a garment; that usually also serves as the closure

point collar A collar with ties used to attach womens sleeves to their gowns

princess seams Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment that create a form-fitting shape

puff sleeve/pouf sleeve A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous gathering around the armhole

sarong skirt Long cloth which is wrapped around the entire body

scoop neck/round neck A low, U-shaped or round neckline

shawl collar A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front

sheaths Usually have straight or close fitting skirts, accompanied by a form fitting bodice. The skirt is often ankle length and sometimes has a slit in either the front, side, or back to make walking easier

shirred waist A decorative gathering (as of cloth) made by drawing up the material along two or more parallel lines of stitching

shrug A womans small, waist-length or shorter jacket

spaghetti strap A thin tubular strap that attaches to the bodice, named for its likeness to a strand of spaghetti

split neck A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to form a small "V"

square neck An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a half square

straight legs Pant legs are cut an equal width from waist to ankle

sweep train The shortest train, barely sweeping the floor

sweetheart neck A graceful, open yoke, shaped like the top half of a heart

tapered legs Pant legs become progressively narrower toward the ankle

tea length A gown hemmed to end at the shin

tie-cinched waist The waist is pulled tight around the body with a tie

trapeze top Tank top style with flared bottom

tulle skirt/bouffant gown A sheer, puffed-out skirt often made of stiffened silk, rayon, or nylon net

tunic style A simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually knee-length or longer, belted at the waist, and worn as an under or outer garment

V-neck/V-back An open yoke coming to a "V" shape midway down the bodice

variegated Having streaks, marks, or patches of different colors; distinguished or characterized by a variety of different colors