Kirtle

The kirtle is sort of a general purpose under-dress. In European fashions it is worn over the bodies and petticoat, and under the gown or over dress. Lower class women wore kirtles as an outer dress over their chemise. Kirtles were part of fashionable attire into the middle sixteenth century, and remained part of country or middle-class clothing into the seventeenth century.

Elizabethan style kirtle. It is worn with a hoop skirt, tie on sleeves, a forepanel skirt, petticoats, a partlet and a coif. She is likely wearing a corset and chemise underneath.

In different time periods the kirtle would change shape slightly, but endured as the most consistent item of clothing for women crossing obstacles of class and creed.

Kirtles could be loose garments without a waist seam, or could be made as a combined bodice and petticoat, depending on their use and the current fashion. Kirtles typically laced up the back or side-back, especially when worn under front-lacing gowns as in sixteenth century Germany and the Low Countries. Kirtles from the 12-14th century typically has short sleeves and were worn with decorative sleeves of a different color and fabric pinned on.

Links

• 15thc Kirtle instructions
• How to draft a pattern for a Kirtle
• Constructing a Pattern for a gathered kirtle
• purchase 12th cen style linen kirtle (More of an Underdress)
• About Kirtles
• Pattern of A 15th century kirtle with sleeves