Entari

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Entari (also written enteri, anteri, antari, etc.) This is the basic garment worn by both men and women. It is an ankle length "coat" that buttons down the front. Most often it has a high round neckline in the 15th and 16th centuries. It is often left unbuttoned from sternum up and from waist down. It is somewhat fitted in the body but has no darts or tucks, no curved or shaped seams. It's all done with straight seaming. To accommodate the hips it has side gores. To accommodate the bust it has somewhat large underarms gussets.

The sleeves can be of several different types: sometimes elbow length, sometimes wrist length. Ottomans were fond of bright jewel tone colors, such as bright reds, yellows and blues, sometimes worn all together. The fabric was almost always fine: silks, light velvets, linen and brocades. Being the center of the silk road, the people of the Ottoman empire had great opportunity to acquire this fabric.

The Entari was worn as a outer layer in all occasions except the very formal, when it may have been covered by an extra jacket. A chemise, in this case a Gomlek, was always worn beneath it to protect the more costly fabric of the visible layers from sweat and body odor. It was also typically worn with pants called Shalwar or chalwar.

Notice the cut-away shape of the hem of the "wing" sleeve, made to be worn over a chirka with long tight sleeves.

This information taken from Dar Anahita, the website of Urtatim al-Qurtubiyya. Thanks Urtatim!

Links

• Persian caftan pattern based on Extant garment